Hamilton, Stonehenge, Thermal Baths & More: Week 1 Of Our 5 Week International Trip

Shae and I are currently in Paris, France as we’ve paused our 50 state road trip for a month this summer to spend some time in Europe.

We left Chicago on August 6 and headed to New York for a couple of days, then flew from there to England. We’ve been super-busy the past few weeks, so I wanted to share what we’ve gotten up to since we’ve been here, but that would be far too much stuff to fit into one post.

As a result, here’s a post sharing what we did during the first week of our trip where we spent time in New York, Haslemere and Bath. We’ll have other posts coming up sharing everything else we’re doing on this trip.

New York

Hamilton

We could’ve flown directly from Chicago to London, but I booked our transatlantic tickets from New York instead. The reason why is because I’d gotten us tickets to see Hamilton at the Richard Rodgers Theatre on Broadway.

Shae is a huuuuuuuge Hamilton fan, but she’d never gotten to see it live before and so I got tickets as an early birthday present (her birthday was the following week once we were in England). I kept it a secret from her, so she didn’t know what we were up to until we arrived at the theater. I was able to get us tickets only five rows back from the stage and so it was awesome being so close to the action.

The show was incredible. I wasn’t sure at first what it would be like to see a completely different cast compared to the one we’re used to from the soundtrack and Disney+ recording of it, but they did an excellent job.

Great Jones Distilling Co Tour

Hamilton started at 3pm and that day also happened to be our anniversary, so before that the show Shae planned something fun for us to celebrate. I love whiskey, so she booked us a tour of Great Jones Distilling Co which is Manhattan’s first legal whiskey distillery since Prohibition.

The tour was fantastic, particularly because of how fun, friendly and knowledgeable our tour guide Jon was.

The tour included a tasting of their various whiskeys, as well as their apple brandy. They all tasted very good, with their rye and four grain straight bourbon whiskeys being my favorite.

I wanted to get a bottle, but couldn’t decide between the four grain and the rye. I therefore did the only sensible thing – I got a bottle of both!

Hilton New York Midtown

For our two nights in New York we stayed at the Hilton New York Midtown. We had a few Hilton free night certificates courtesy of our Hilton credit cards (the Hilton Aspire card gives a free night certificate each year, while the Hilton Surpass and Hilton Business cards give a free night certificate each year when spending $15,000 on the cards), so we redeemed a couple of those for our stay seeing as it’s quite expensive to stay in midtown New York during the summer.

Due to the Executive Lounge being closed (which we would’ve had access to thanks to our Hilton status) and Hilton’s food and beverage benefit for stays at US properties for those with Gold status or higher, we got $71 per day to use towards food and drink at the hotel. The first night we shared a bottle of wine at the hotel’s bar, then the second day we used most of our credit to get snacks and drinks from their little store in the hotel.

Haslemere, England

United Flight

The day after watching Hamilton it was time to fly to the UK. We have more than enough miles to fly business class to the UK, but it’s always hard to justify redeeming that many more miles on a relatively short international flight seeing as it only takes ~7 hours to fly from New York to London. By the time the food service is done, there’s only time to sleep/nap for a few hours before you get woken up for breakfast, so having a lie-flat seat doesn’t provide as much benefit.

We therefore flew economy with United as doing that had a couple of benefits. We had lots of United TravelBank Cash saved up thanks to American Express airline fee credits on a number of our credit cards, so our flights didn’t cost us anything out of pocket beyond the credit card annual fees that we would’ve paid anyway.

Shae and I both have United Silver status courtesy of United’s partnership with Marriott where we both currently have Titanium status. That meant we were able to pick seats with extra legroom which provided a little more comfort.

Our Silver status also meant our checked luggage got priority handling. That was particularly useful because there have been lots of nightmare stories about people’s bags getting lost when flying to Heathrow this summer. Not only did our bags not get lost, but the Priority tags meant they were some of the first bags to arrive on the carousel from our flight.

Family Photo

Every 5-6 years or so we get a family photo taken. With this being the first time Shae and I had been able to visit the UK in a few years due to COVID, we all got together for a photo.

I haven’t seen the finished product yet, so here’s a photo of me, Shae, my sister and nephew instead!

Family Food

Whenever we visit my parents, my mum asks if there are any home-cooked meals I want while I’m back. We only had an opportunity for one meal, so I picked shepherd’s pie for dinner.

For dessert, I couldn’t choose between two options and so I made a similar choice as I did with the whiskeys from Great Jones – I asked for both!

The village in which I grew up in England had lots of wild brambles which bore lots of blackberries in the summer. I loved going blackberry-picking in the summer as a kid because my mum would then make blackberry and apple crumble (similar to cobbler for US readers), so that was my first request.

My second request was a dessert that I’m surprised isn’t a common dessert in the US – banoffee pie. It has a pie crust base and is topped with banana, toffee (caramel) and cream. It’s ridiculously sweet and decadent and oh-so-good.

We only stayed at my parents’ for two nights as we got to spend a month with them on the road trip earlier this year and we wanted to get to Bath in time for Shae’s birthday.

Bath, England

Smart Car

We spent a week touring southwest England, with the first stop being Bath for three nights. Although public transport is better in the UK than in the US, it was still going to be easier for us to rent a car than it would be to rely on trains and buses given where we wanted to visit.

With it being the summer holidays in the UK though, car rentals were fairly expensive. We were able to save money and get a fun little ride by renting a car through Turo instead. If you’re not familiar with Turo, think of it as Airbnb for cars where people rent out their car for other people to drive.

This worked out to be more economical than getting a regular rental car, plus it gave us the opportunity to rent a Smart car for the week. Smart cars are two-seater cars and we used to have one for a few years when we lived in Portsmouth, VA. It’s a great car to zip around in, especially given how narrow UK roads can be. Its super-compact size makes parking a breeze too.

Despite being such a small vehicle, there’s a surprising amount of space inside. We were able to fit a large suitcase, a carry-on suitcase, my large laptop bag, Shae’s camera bag, a neck pillow, a large hoodie and two other bags in the trunk with no problem.

British Snacks

In addition to my mum’s home-cooked meals, I like getting snacks whenever I’m back in England that I generally can’t get living in the US. We stopped for lunch at a service station along the way down to Bath where I got a hoisin duck wrap, coconut chunks and a Yorkie chocolate bar.

Stonehenge

Shae and I visited Bath for our 5th wedding anniversary just before we moved to the US back in 2009. On our way down there we’d driven past Stonehenge but decided not to stop. I’d gone there on a school trip as a kid and Shae was happy to just see it from the A303 as we drove by.

This time around we decided to stop at Stonehenge because a) it would give Shae a chance to finally see it, b) we weren’t in a rush and c) we’re not on a tight budget like we were back in those days. I’m glad we did stop because it had been 30+ years since I’d visited, so I couldn’t remember much of that visit and it was nice that Shae had a chance to check it out as well.

There’s a museum that’s worth visiting before you head up to the stones as that helps explain what you’ll see, how they think Stonehenge was constructed, what was on the site before its current incarnation, etc.

The parking lot for Stonehenge is a little way from the stones, so there’s a shuttle bus that takes you there and back which is included in the ticket price. You’re not allowed to go right up to the stone formations because there were concerns decades ago about them getting damaged. While it’s a shame that you can’t get as close to them, it does mean you can take photos without people appearing among the formations.

Having said that, English Heritage does provide people with the opportunity to walk among the stones. You can book a Stone Circle Experience which is an hour-long tour that takes place either in the early morning or the evening. You’ll need to plan ahead though because they only take 30 people on each day’s tour and so tickets get booked very quickly. What’s particularly great about the experience is that it’s not an extortionate price – at the time of publishing this post it looks like that experience costs £48 (~$56.50).

The Gainsborough Bath Spa

After wandering around Stonehenge for about 1.5 hours, we continued on our way to Bath where we stayed at The Gainsborough Bath Spa. This hotel is part of Small Luxury Hotels of the World which meant that we were able to book our stay using World of Hyatt points rather than paying the ~$450 per night they were charging during the dates we stayed.

The hotel’s standout feature is that it has three thermal pools that are naturally heated – the only hotel in Bath to have pools with that feature. Access to the pools is complimentary for hotel guests and you can book a three hour timeslot each day to enjoy those, as well as the hotel’s sauna.

They don’t allow you to take your phone inside the pool area, so here’s Shae and I having just enjoyed some time in the spa area.

I wrote a more detailed review of our stay over at Frequent Miler, so you can check that out here.

Sally Lunn’s

Sally Lunn’s is a small eating house located in the oldest house in Bath as it was built circa 1482. It’s around the corner from the Roman Baths and is a great spot to get something to eat.

Most menu items at Sally Lunn’s come served on half of one of their buns, AKA a Sally Lunn bun. They’re giant round buns that you can get topped with either savory items or sweet items. When going there for lunch one day I ordered their chicken and ham hock trencher which is one of their buns topped with what’s effectively a chicken and ham stew. It doesn’t necessarily look overly appetizing, but I thought it was delicious.

Shae ordered their Welsh Rarebit which doesn’t contain rabbit but is instead topped with a cheese sauce, mushrooms and bacon and she loved her meal too.

However, our favorite menu item is the World Famous Sally Lunn Cream Tea. This is half a toasted and buttered bun served with strawberry jam and clotted cream. If you like scones with jam and clotted cream, you’ll definitely like one of Sally Lunn’s buns topped with the same goodness.

The photos haven’t done justice to quite how big the buns are, so this will give a better idea:

Roman Baths

One of the highlights of a visit to Bath is checking out the Roman Baths in the center of the city, a site that’s almost 2,000 years old. The water in the baths is naturally heated geothermally having made its way down the Mendip Hills, through limestone aquifers and up through the ground into the baths. You can still see bubbles coming up in some parts of the baths today, but you’re not able to get into the water (not that you’d want to given its color!)

There’s a lot of interesting information throughout the site from both a scientific and historical perspective. There are holographic video displays, kids craft activities, a free audio tour via a handset you receive upon entry, archaeological finds, excavations, mosaics and much more.

Towards the end of the tour you can even “take the waters” which means you can drink some of the natural water from Bath. It’s warm and has a slight almost-sulfuric taste to it, so it’s not something I’d want to drink on the regular. People back in the day swore by it though. For example, here are a couple of quotes displayed next to the water fountain:

The Bath Waters are so powerful in their action that a course of treatment by them must be entered upon with caution and not without a certain amount of responsibility – Popular Guide to the use of the Bath Waters, J.G. Douglas Keer in 1891

If they can’t be cured by drinking and bathing here, they will never be cured anywhere – A Practical Dissertation on the Bath Waters, Dr William Oliver in 1707

Bath Abbey

Bath Abbey is also in the center of Bath, right next to the Roman Baths. It’s free to enter, but they do ask for donations. Alternatively, you can pay to take a guided tour.

The abbey is beautiful inside and is worth at least a quick wander while in Bath.

Pulteney Bridge

Our wanderings later that afternoon took us over to Pulteney Bridge.

The bridge is almost unique in that it’s one of only four bridges worldwide to have stores lining the entire length of both sides.

The Stable

We got unlucky with our first two attempts at having dinner on our first night in Bath, but that turned out to be a good thing. Shae and I stopped first at Las Iguanas which is a chain restaurant that has a great cocktail selection. We sat for 10 minutes and were ignored by the servers, so we got up and went to look for somewhere else to eat.

There was a Thai restaurant nearby called Thai Balcony that looked cute as it had a balcony on the second floor looking out over the streets below. We were given a table inside though and the restaurant was extremely hot. After waiting another 10 minutes and being ignored yet again, we left there too.

Across the street from Thai Balcony was The Stable and this was our savior. Matilda was our server and she was immediately friendly, wonderful and attentive and, most importantly, brought water to our table as we were really thirsty.

Shae and I both wanted to try some local drinks too, so I ordered a Big Wednesday IPA from Harbour Brewing which is based in Bodmin, Cornwall. That was nice and refreshing – just what I needed. Shae got their cider flight which featured five different ciders from local cideries. She wasn’t a big fan of the two still ciders as they were room temperature and non-carbonated. That’s how those are supposed to be served, she just didn’t like that kind and she’d never tried that type before. She did enjoy the other ciders and ordered a full-sized cider after.

I hadn’t really been feeling like having pizza, but I ordered one anyway and I’m sure glad I did. It turns out that The Stable is a small chain which, at the time of publishing this post, has 8 locations in the UK. I wouldn’t be surprised if that number increases by the time we next return to England because their pizza is excellent.

Shae ordered their cheese and tomato pizza as that’s her go-to and she enjoyed it. However, she was incredibly jealous when she had a bite of mine as she loved it just as much as I did.

I’d ordered their Blazing Saddle pizza which is topped with slow-roasted pulled beef, roast piquillo peppers, red onion marmalade, jalapenos and a homemade garlic and herb drizzle. It really was a flavor bomb and is probably the most flavorful pizza I’ve ever had. The sweet and heat and meat pull your taste buds all over the place, but in the best way possible.

Shae regretted missing out on that pizza so much that we returned the next day so that we could order it again. That also gave her the opportunity to get their Lotta Choc Sundae for dessert as well.

Not content with eating and drinking there on our first and second nights, we returned to The Stable on our third and final night in Bath for a drink.

The service we received all three times was simply fantastic. As a Brit who grew up in England and has lived in the US for the last 13 years, restaurant service in the UK is generally not anywhere near as good as in the US. The Stable is an exception – every single server we interacted with on all three days was excellent, with Matilda being our favorite. Everyone was hard working, friendly, welcoming and helpful – whoever’s in charge of hiring at their Bath location has done an excellent job picking the perfect people for the job.

Thai Weir

With a couple of meals at The Stable and a couple of lunches at Sally Lunn’s, we didn’t end up eating out much elsewhere other than at Thai Weir. This is a restaurant next to the river and weir in Bath and nestled up against Pulteney Bridge. We had dinner there on our final evening as we met up with a couple of friends.

Service at Thai Weir wasn’t anywhere near as good as at The Stable, but the food was tasty. I forgot to take a photo of my sizzling chicken stir fry with rice, so here’s Shae’s spring rolls.

The Griffin Inn

Somewhere else we did get fantastic service though was at The Griffin Inn. On Shae’s birthday we went out for a walk in the evening and passed by this cute place. On our way back we decided to stop in for a drink as it looked like it had a relaxed pub/wine bar vibe.

We ordered drinks and happened to mention that it was Shae’s birthday. About 10-15 minutes later, the two employees working that night came out with a cupcake and a candle on top and sang Happy Birthday to her. It was such a sweet and unexpected gesture that rounded off a lovely night.

Royal Crescent

The Royal Crescent is a row of 30 terraced houses in a crescent formation that’s a short walk from the center of Bath. If you take a hop-on, hop-off bus tour in Bath, the route takes you up there too.

No. 1 Royal Crescent Museum

The Royal Crescent is also home to No. 1 Royal Crescent, a museum in a restored townhouse that displays period rooms and showcases what life was like for those of means who lived or visited Bath and the servants who waited on them.

We spent about 45 minutes looking around the home, but if you’re someone who loves historic homes, Georgian life and/or Downton Abbey-esque things, you could easily spend more time there.

All Posts In This Series

• Hamilton, Stonehenge, Thermal Baths & More: Week 1 Of Our 5 Week International Trip
• Castles, Gardens, Seals, Otters, Friends & Much More: Week 2 Of Our 5 Week International Trip
• London, Paris & London Again: Week 3 Of Our 5 Week International Trip
• Liverpool & Belfast: Week 4 Of Our 5 Week International Trip
• Dublin, Ireland: The End Of Our 5 Week International Trip